JatimVoice.com – Every April 21st, the Indonesian people commemorate Kartini Day to honor the legacy of Raden Ajeng Kartini, a prominent female figure recognized as a pioneer of women's emancipation in the country.
One interesting tradition that always accompanies Kartini Day is the wearing of the kebaya by women. So, why is the kebaya so closely associated with Kartini Day?
For a long time, Kartini Day has been strongly tied to the kebaya. In almost every school, office, and government institution, women dress gracefully in kebaya attire. This is not only a tribute to R.A. Kartini, but also a symbol of Indonesian women's cultural identity and struggle.
According to Buku Pengantar Teori Sastra (Introduction to Literary Theory) by Dr. Redtianto Permata Raharjo, M.Pd., and team (2022: 48), Kartini Day plays a major role in inspiring Indonesian women to continue fighting for equality. Kartini is considered a feminist figure who changed public perceptions of women through her ideas, which were later compiled into the book Letters of a Javanese Princess (Habis Gelap Terbitlah Terang).
Kartini is known not only for her thoughts but also for her appearance. She was often seen wearing the kebaya, a traditional Javanese women’s garment that has since become a symbol of Indonesian women's struggle. This is one of the main reasons why kebaya is so closely tied to Kartini Day.
In her daily life, R.A. Kartini was known to always wear the kebaya. There is even a kebaya style named after her—kebaya Kartini—characterized by a V-shaped collar and loose-fitting sleeves. This style reflects the simplicity and elegance of Javanese women at the time.
Today, the Kartini kebaya is not only worn during Kartini Day commemorations but has also become an inspiration in fashion shows and cultural preservation efforts in Indonesia.
The kebaya itself has a long and layered history. It is more than just traditional clothing—it is the result of a rich cultural blend. The word “kebaya” is believed to come from the Arabic word “abaya,” which means garment.
Kebaya began to be worn by noblewomen in the Javanese royal courts around the 16th century. During this period, the arrival of the Portuguese and Dutch greatly influenced local clothing styles, contributing to the form of kebaya we know today.
Before the kebaya became widespread, women in the archipelago typically wore kemben, a piece of cloth wrapped around the upper body without covering the chest. However, with the arrival of Islam and the establishment of the Demak Sultanate, dress codes changed. Women were required to cover their chests, and the kebaya was introduced as a covering or alternative to the kemben.
In addition to Arab and Islamic influences, kebaya styles were also shaped by French and Indian cultures, which entered through trade and European colonization.
Today, wearing the kebaya on April 21 is more than a tribute to R.A. Kartini—it has become a symbol of women's strength and resilience. Through the kebaya, the public is invited to remember Kartini’s spirit in fighting for women’s rights during the colonial era.
More than just traditional clothing, the kebaya now stands as a symbol of the Indonesian woman: strong, empowered, and rooted in culture.
That’s why the kebaya is so strongly associated with Kartini.